York Minster was overwhelmingly vast and beautiful. We made Eucharist at the Minster in the afternoon. On the way out of town, our cab driver told us a local Yorkshire dirty joke which was not too naughty, but bad enough that I won't repeat it here.
Now that we're in Bath, we have access to proper tea for the first time all trip. We took advantage of that fact today after Eucharist by having tea at the Jane Austen Centre's Regency tea room. Then we had second tea at the Sally Lunn shop. The bus system in Bath is the worst we've ever encountered. Horrible off schedule, freezing cold boarding area, and rude obnoxious drivers. Thanks to them, we've had to stand outside in nasty weather for a couple of hours the past couple of days. But the B&B where we're staying is cozy and warm with the best mattress we've had all trip.
We are eager to get home. The gem of Canterbury is still before us. Tomorrow we round off our pilgrimage at the cathedral. We'll go to as many services as we can while we're there. Then it's two nights in Kensington, from where we'll explore the illuminated manuscripts and reliquaries at the museums and then head home. We'd appreciate continued prayers for safe travels.
On Thanksgiving, we'll be giving our parents a call and eating whatever we have in the freezer. See a lot of y'all next Sunday.
Love and Peace,
Summer
Sunday, 18 November 2007
Thursday, 15 November 2007
Pilgrim's progress
We've gone to almost all of the major pilgrimage sites in Scotland now. All if you just go by the first 12 centuries. Yesterday after exploring the far too cute Beatrix Potter museum in Birnam, we trekked over to Dunkeld to see the partially ruined cathedral where St. Columba's relics were held for awhile. Today we saw the reliquary in the museum. The relics are long gone, but it was cool to see part of what the old pilgrims might have seen.
We've learned a lot about the Reformation and why the Episcopal and Catholic churches were so terribly persecuted/desecrated. It's the Jacobite deal, you know, those people who didn't like people beheading the king happened to be Episcopalians or Catholics, etc. Also, maybe the Episcopalians and Catholics weren't crazed mobs who destroyed priceless artwork and sacred objects and/or go around preaching in masks to avoid the law. Mmkay, I just don't think that destroying the Bible of the Poor (stained glass windows) was necessary to get across the point that everyone should be allowed to read the scriptures in their own language. In the museum today, we saw two very heartbreaking things: the only painted ceiling that survived the Reformation, and the only church banner to survive the Reformation (in Scotland). "And I alone am left to tell."
The highlight of today was Eucharisting at St. Mary's Episcopal cathedral. We really needed Eucharist. It was just us and the priest today. Afterwards, she inquired as to where we are from, etc. She said, "You're definitely 'piscers. I could see that right away. But I didn't quite think you were from the Scottish Episcopal Church." Besides the accents, we paused awkwardly in the few places where the responses are different in the SEC liturgy. I've never been called out as a conspicuous 'piscer before, so I'm actually kind of flattered. I don't know what that says about my character.
We're very travel weary at this point. (I think I'm expressing my weariness by narrowing my eyes at the Reformers, like they care what I think across the centuries). I don't know what the internet access will be like when we head south, but I'll try to do a photo blog before we head home. Tomorrow we are for York. Our goal is to make the noon-thirty Eucharist at Yorkminster. Then we have a Jane Austen detour to Bath (yay!), then longen folks to go on pilgrimages especially to Canterbury. Then London, then home! (Where we will not be able to buy groceries, but I think we have some mac and cheese or something to eat on Thanksgiving night).
We've learned a lot about the Reformation and why the Episcopal and Catholic churches were so terribly persecuted/desecrated. It's the Jacobite deal, you know, those people who didn't like people beheading the king happened to be Episcopalians or Catholics, etc. Also, maybe the Episcopalians and Catholics weren't crazed mobs who destroyed priceless artwork and sacred objects and/or go around preaching in masks to avoid the law. Mmkay, I just don't think that destroying the Bible of the Poor (stained glass windows) was necessary to get across the point that everyone should be allowed to read the scriptures in their own language. In the museum today, we saw two very heartbreaking things: the only painted ceiling that survived the Reformation, and the only church banner to survive the Reformation (in Scotland). "And I alone am left to tell."
The highlight of today was Eucharisting at St. Mary's Episcopal cathedral. We really needed Eucharist. It was just us and the priest today. Afterwards, she inquired as to where we are from, etc. She said, "You're definitely 'piscers. I could see that right away. But I didn't quite think you were from the Scottish Episcopal Church." Besides the accents, we paused awkwardly in the few places where the responses are different in the SEC liturgy. I've never been called out as a conspicuous 'piscer before, so I'm actually kind of flattered. I don't know what that says about my character.
We're very travel weary at this point. (I think I'm expressing my weariness by narrowing my eyes at the Reformers, like they care what I think across the centuries). I don't know what the internet access will be like when we head south, but I'll try to do a photo blog before we head home. Tomorrow we are for York. Our goal is to make the noon-thirty Eucharist at Yorkminster. Then we have a Jane Austen detour to Bath (yay!), then longen folks to go on pilgrimages especially to Canterbury. Then London, then home! (Where we will not be able to buy groceries, but I think we have some mac and cheese or something to eat on Thanksgiving night).
Tuesday, 13 November 2007
bad/good news
The bad news is that the blocks around our B&B are blacked out so we have to hang out elsewhere this evening till they get that fixed. That also means we haven't had a chance to download the cameras/upload new pictures. The good news is that I'm finally writing out postcards. You'll get them next week probably.
Today we went to the Palace. It was cool enough. The Reformation once again got some fist shakes from the Kinards when we lamented the state of Holyrood Abbey. I've developed a theory that the Reformation could not have happend without a profound shift in attitudes toward death and the afterlife. Otherwise, the Reformers would not have desecrated so many graves and ceased praying for the dead. It's pathetic to see graves that were meant to be prayed over for perpetuity, sitting in puddles of rain or bird poo. If the Reformers were Catholic, I would give them some Catholic guilt at this point. "Would you do that to your grandmother?!"
We refrained from spitting at John Knox's house out of Christian charity. Instead we had tea in a quiet tea room. Tea here is gross, to be blunt, but we have high hopes for tea in England next week.
The highlight of today was praying at the shrine of St. Andrew. I'll say more about the shrine when we upload the pictures, because what impressed us most is easier seen than described otherwise.
We are so homesick that only the hope of Christian art and holy sites gets us going each morning now. Whenever we happen upon an icon or holy water, we're on it like flies. We hope to make Eucharist this Thursday, which should restore some balance.
Love and Peace,
Summer
Today we went to the Palace. It was cool enough. The Reformation once again got some fist shakes from the Kinards when we lamented the state of Holyrood Abbey. I've developed a theory that the Reformation could not have happend without a profound shift in attitudes toward death and the afterlife. Otherwise, the Reformers would not have desecrated so many graves and ceased praying for the dead. It's pathetic to see graves that were meant to be prayed over for perpetuity, sitting in puddles of rain or bird poo. If the Reformers were Catholic, I would give them some Catholic guilt at this point. "Would you do that to your grandmother?!"
We refrained from spitting at John Knox's house out of Christian charity. Instead we had tea in a quiet tea room. Tea here is gross, to be blunt, but we have high hopes for tea in England next week.
The highlight of today was praying at the shrine of St. Andrew. I'll say more about the shrine when we upload the pictures, because what impressed us most is easier seen than described otherwise.
We are so homesick that only the hope of Christian art and holy sites gets us going each morning now. Whenever we happen upon an icon or holy water, we're on it like flies. We hope to make Eucharist this Thursday, which should restore some balance.
Love and Peace,
Summer
Monday, 12 November 2007
Edinburgh- get on the bus
Last time we were in Edinburgh, we were like, omg, too many hills/our legs are rebelling even now. As seasoned Scotlandeers, we climbed the royal mile today and said, "Not a bad walk. Pretty flat." The crisis point in leg soreness actually came in Iona, where we walked about 5 or 6 miles one day, till I came the realization that never before in my whole life, not even the time I had to ride an exercise bike for a 20 mile fundraiser, had my legs been so sore. I mean, the quads hurt, the hamstrings hurt, and the calves felt tired out of sympathy. Since then, I've been like, What? It's no big deal.
Right. So the other reason we're seasoned to this place is that we have photo id bus passes. That means that we don't have to walk if we get tired. It's a nice option, since we're staying south of Old Town and doing things about 10 city blocks away. Speaking of where we're staying, I recommend it. Blossom House is run by a very friendly young man (family actually, but we've not met his wife since they have a 1 week old), it's very clean, and it's in the Boho section of town. That means ethnic food, smoothie bars, cafes, and bookstores. If it weren't far too cold, we'd probably spend more time looking in the bookshops. But instead we bused to Princes Street and browsed in the four floor Waterstone's. There's a great big central staircase that keeps the place from feeling like a Scottish Barnes and Noble. More elegance or similar.
Today we discovered an awesome Smoothie bar called Juice Monkeys. It has free internet access. I'm addicted to their fare at present, so we'll probably be online again tomorrow to post more pictures. We also toured Edinburgh Castle. It's the last castle in our plans, and I'm glad. I'm kind of castled out. We're going to see the Palace tomorrow. Then it's cathedrals from here on out. The highlights of the castle were: 1. Seeing the crown jewels. 2. Learning about St. Margaret and visiting her chapel. 3. Having tea/late lunch at the Queen Anne cafe in the castle, where they had really delicious haggis and neeps taster canapes. They were so good that if I was the sort of person to spend far too much time preparing food that had to be steamed in a sheep stomach (haggis), I would seriously make some for parties. But I'm not; I won't even make tamales, which I like better. They also gave Andrew the first real leaf tea we've had while we've been here. 4. The views are spectacular. You can see across the Firth of Forth and all around the city from the top. No wonder people have defended the rock for some thousands of years. 5. It was cold enough to warrant the use of coliquialisms (cold as --fill in blank with regional preference----) when we got out of the castle, so I bought a cashmere scarf at one of the tourist woolen shops. It's just the national tartan (Stuart), not my particular one, but it's very warm. When you're in perpetual cold weather, warmth is definitely a highlight.
On Wednesday we plan to pilgrimage over to the catholic St. Mary's Cathedral to pray at the shrine with the relics of St. Andrew the apostle. We'll also see the Episcopal St. Mary's here, which we understand from Stepheny to have an exceptional painting.
Summary of Aberdeen:
Getting Back to Our Roots
We went to Sung Matins yesterday at St. Andrew's. It's usually a sung Eucharist, which is why we went, but yesterday was the annual day of remembrance, so they read the names of the dead of the parish from the world wars in an act of remembrance in the time that would probably have been Eucharist otherwise. It was good to see that the war memorial plaques in the cathedrals serve a liturgical purpose. The Provost introduced himself and his wife Katherine after the service. We chatted about Christian Education and were invited to join the congregation for tea and biscuits in the Skinner centre, their sort of parish hall. They also showed us around a bit and let us take pictures of the altar.
Aside: Okay, Provost garb is cool looking. I have no idea what the cape looking thing is called, but it was pretty in a holy way.
The remarkable characteristic of the cathedrals where we've worshipped is the hospitality. When we were in Inverness, the Provost - the Very Reverend Alexander Gordon - greeted us after noonday Eucharist. He inquired as to our travels, made us feel very welcome, and asked us to send their greetings back to CHF. At Aberdeen, the Provost - the Very Reverend Richard Kilgour- welcomed us after Matins, asked us where we were from and if we worked in the church (gift of discernment there). When we replied as to our involvement at CHF, he immediately called over his wife to introduce us and talk about Godly Play, which they have just started there. (Andrew is involved in Godly Play at CHF). Then he asked me how our adult education worked, told me what program they use, and gave me a website reference. When we went over for tea, his wife Katherine gave us a tour of the Godly Play facility. I told her about CHF's tradition of hiding the wise men in the Nave through Advent, finally arriving at the creche on Epiphany, and she said they might implement the idea there, too. After tea, Katherine let us back into the cathedral to take pictures and look at the glorious altar canopy.
Just amazing hospitality.
Other than the cathedral and the opera, Aberdeen was a little unpleasant. There are far too many smokers, the air seems dusty, it was cold, and we were at an uncomfortable guest house (Arden house, which I advise you to avoid, even if they do have 3 stars from the tourist board). I hope it is not uncharitable to admit that Americans seem on the whole prettier and younger looking than the Scots in Aberdeen. I think it's the cigarrettes. The church people, children, and nonsmokers looked well enough.
Love and Peace
Summer
Right. So the other reason we're seasoned to this place is that we have photo id bus passes. That means that we don't have to walk if we get tired. It's a nice option, since we're staying south of Old Town and doing things about 10 city blocks away. Speaking of where we're staying, I recommend it. Blossom House is run by a very friendly young man (family actually, but we've not met his wife since they have a 1 week old), it's very clean, and it's in the Boho section of town. That means ethnic food, smoothie bars, cafes, and bookstores. If it weren't far too cold, we'd probably spend more time looking in the bookshops. But instead we bused to Princes Street and browsed in the four floor Waterstone's. There's a great big central staircase that keeps the place from feeling like a Scottish Barnes and Noble. More elegance or similar.
Today we discovered an awesome Smoothie bar called Juice Monkeys. It has free internet access. I'm addicted to their fare at present, so we'll probably be online again tomorrow to post more pictures. We also toured Edinburgh Castle. It's the last castle in our plans, and I'm glad. I'm kind of castled out. We're going to see the Palace tomorrow. Then it's cathedrals from here on out. The highlights of the castle were: 1. Seeing the crown jewels. 2. Learning about St. Margaret and visiting her chapel. 3. Having tea/late lunch at the Queen Anne cafe in the castle, where they had really delicious haggis and neeps taster canapes. They were so good that if I was the sort of person to spend far too much time preparing food that had to be steamed in a sheep stomach (haggis), I would seriously make some for parties. But I'm not; I won't even make tamales, which I like better. They also gave Andrew the first real leaf tea we've had while we've been here. 4. The views are spectacular. You can see across the Firth of Forth and all around the city from the top. No wonder people have defended the rock for some thousands of years. 5. It was cold enough to warrant the use of coliquialisms (cold as --fill in blank with regional preference----) when we got out of the castle, so I bought a cashmere scarf at one of the tourist woolen shops. It's just the national tartan (Stuart), not my particular one, but it's very warm. When you're in perpetual cold weather, warmth is definitely a highlight.
On Wednesday we plan to pilgrimage over to the catholic St. Mary's Cathedral to pray at the shrine with the relics of St. Andrew the apostle. We'll also see the Episcopal St. Mary's here, which we understand from Stepheny to have an exceptional painting.
Summary of Aberdeen:
Getting Back to Our Roots
We went to Sung Matins yesterday at St. Andrew's. It's usually a sung Eucharist, which is why we went, but yesterday was the annual day of remembrance, so they read the names of the dead of the parish from the world wars in an act of remembrance in the time that would probably have been Eucharist otherwise. It was good to see that the war memorial plaques in the cathedrals serve a liturgical purpose. The Provost introduced himself and his wife Katherine after the service. We chatted about Christian Education and were invited to join the congregation for tea and biscuits in the Skinner centre, their sort of parish hall. They also showed us around a bit and let us take pictures of the altar.
Aside: Okay, Provost garb is cool looking. I have no idea what the cape looking thing is called, but it was pretty in a holy way.
The remarkable characteristic of the cathedrals where we've worshipped is the hospitality. When we were in Inverness, the Provost - the Very Reverend Alexander Gordon - greeted us after noonday Eucharist. He inquired as to our travels, made us feel very welcome, and asked us to send their greetings back to CHF. At Aberdeen, the Provost - the Very Reverend Richard Kilgour- welcomed us after Matins, asked us where we were from and if we worked in the church (gift of discernment there). When we replied as to our involvement at CHF, he immediately called over his wife to introduce us and talk about Godly Play, which they have just started there. (Andrew is involved in Godly Play at CHF). Then he asked me how our adult education worked, told me what program they use, and gave me a website reference. When we went over for tea, his wife Katherine gave us a tour of the Godly Play facility. I told her about CHF's tradition of hiding the wise men in the Nave through Advent, finally arriving at the creche on Epiphany, and she said they might implement the idea there, too. After tea, Katherine let us back into the cathedral to take pictures and look at the glorious altar canopy.
Just amazing hospitality.
Other than the cathedral and the opera, Aberdeen was a little unpleasant. There are far too many smokers, the air seems dusty, it was cold, and we were at an uncomfortable guest house (Arden house, which I advise you to avoid, even if they do have 3 stars from the tourist board). I hope it is not uncharitable to admit that Americans seem on the whole prettier and younger looking than the Scots in Aberdeen. I think it's the cigarrettes. The church people, children, and nonsmokers looked well enough.
Love and Peace
Summer
Friday, 9 November 2007
Sooo cold
Aberdeen. It's on the NORTH Sea. Go figure. When we arrived yesterday, we were greeted by icy winds. You think I mean really, really cold. But I mean ice. Bits of icy rain, sleet, and wet snow. And like 25mph winds. Today it's a lot better and seems to be in the upper 30s. But I still had to buy a wool coat so I won't freeze on our way to the theatre. Last night we saw a free production called Opera Unwrapped where they explained the plotline and workings of The Barber of Seville. Tonight we're seeing the opera. Tomorrow night we're seeing Mozart's Seraglio. His Majesty's Theatre is gorgeous. All marble, red and gold and ivory. Even though our seats for tonight and tomorrow are in the nosebleed section, we will still have a pretty sight. And hopefully good singing. Last night we heard the understudies, and they were pretty good, so the principals should be quite engaging.
We are off to find St.Andrew's Episcopal here in Aberdeen. It's our momma church, y'all!
peace.
Summer
(Andrew is right here next to me drinking hot chocolate at the internet cafe, but he says blogging is "not his thing.")
We are off to find St.Andrew's Episcopal here in Aberdeen. It's our momma church, y'all!
peace.
Summer
(Andrew is right here next to me drinking hot chocolate at the internet cafe, but he says blogging is "not his thing.")
Wednesday, 7 November 2007
Places Update
Places We've Been
On All Hallow's Eve, we visited Tomnavarie Ring Cairn. That place felt sacred in a very old way. We took some videos there that we've still not had time to upload, but here are a few stills.
Crathes Castle has the most beautiful painted ceilings. Several of the original rooms from around 1600 still show original painted beams, ceilings, and friezes around the tops of walls. Our favorite room, the Muses Room (which was also their music room), was gorgeous. Besides the muses, the virtues were painted on the ceiling between the beams. The beams were scripted with proverbs and biblical passages on the sides, and a repeating floral motif went down the center of each beam. The biblical passages were from the Geneva Bible and were themed by room (I think we saw four rooms with the original/restored painted ceilings). The amazing ceilings were definitely the best part of Crathes, but they also had really lovely gardens there.
Unfortunately, we were neither allowed to take pictures of the painted ceilings, nor were there postcards on the subject. Maybe you can find images on the internet. Crathes is also the seat of a large branch of the Burnett clan. They have the Horn of Leys in the great hall there, given to the family by Robert the Bruce.
Singing Places: Not applicable. It was too busy that day. This is me in front of one of the giant cedars.
Iona is a thin place, and one of the oldest islands in the world.
The place feels really ancient, but we didn't have the reaction we expected being there. There we were on pilgrimage, and we kept feeling sad about established religion. We found ourselves lamenting the consolidation of power in the churches, especially because of the consequences when political power shifts. We were sad that Roman Christianity tamped down Celtic Christianity. We were sad that Protestant Christianity tamped down Roman Christianity, and we were sad that the only people who seemed to care that ferns were growing above the high altar were the staff of Historic Scotland. Mostly we found ourselves being kind of ticked about the local effects of the Reformation. There used to be over 350 standing carved crosses on Iona. During the Reformation, about 345 of them were torn down. Their fate? Tossed into the middle of the sea. All that art and beauty destroyed because the Catholic church owned too much land in Britain - oh, I mean, to purify us all from idolatry - or maybe because the prioress was related to a lord who maybe some people thought should not own the island. 
Sigh. 7th century crosses tossed into the sea. Sigh.
We went to an evening service at the Abbey church the first night on Iona. On the way, the sky cleared, and we saw more stars than we can remember seeing before. Andrew says he doesn't think he saw so many stars in the desert as we saw in the clear cold island sky that night. Star clusters sang together. That starlit walk more than any other moment on the holy island made me feel that the veil between worlds was thinner there. I remember asking if there was some deeper way to know God that the ancient saints knew. Perhaps some mystery hidden in the rocks and chapels?
The answer came when I woke at dawn to a song in my head: "Ten thousand thousand are their tongues, but all their joys are one. Worthy the Lamb who died, they cry, to be exalted thus. Worthy the Lamb! our lips reply, for He was slain for us." Whatever beauty art or nature reveal to train our hearts to see God, there is only one truth at the heart of it, and one great mystery that enlightens all beauty. I am grateful to the sacred ancient island for reminding me.
Singing places on Iona: the Parish Church, a modernish Church of Scotland structure that is always unlocked; the West Coast beach, where we picked up lucky pieces of Iona green marble that washed up.
Our hosts on Iona were warm and hospitable and made us feel very welcome. In general, all of the people we've met in Scotland have been kind and friendly.
Today we saw Stirling Castle.
They are still in the process of restoring it, but the great hall was completely redone. I had no idea great halls were so massive till we went there. 
The castle would have been plastered in a color called "king's gold" for the most part, but James V's palace was originally plastered in "sugar pink," reflecting his reputation as an amorous lady's man (double digit bastards). The highlight of Stirling was the tapestries. 
Historic Scotland is currently restoring the palace. The queen's reception room in the palace originally had a series of tapestries called "The History of the Unicorn" made in the same place as the famous series now in the Metropolitan Museum in New York. (We have a reproduction of the final tapestry in the series, of the captive unicorn, in our bedroom at home). 
Since the Stirling originals are long gone, a team of weavers is actually recreating the unicorn series (scaled down to fit the Queen's room), largely on-site. 
We saw the three finished tapestries, made by two teams of 3 weavers/time, over the past six years both at Stirling and at the tapestry making center at New Deans College? We got to talk with the head weaver today. She showed us how they trace the patterns and how the patterns and colors are subject to interpretation. The studio there is preparing to loom the next big tapestry, the Unicorn Defends Himself, in January. For now, they are doing samples of colors, techniques, and shading so they can decide which methods to use on the big tapestry. It was amazing to see the variations in interpretation in the samples. Because each thread is a solid color, shading is done by tricking the eye by laying two colors next to each other in particular patterns. The weavers use their creativity within the confines of the larger pattern to bring the picture to life.
Singing places in Stirling: the road between the castle and our B&B (CastleCroft, possibly the most hospitable people in the universe?) was great for singing hymns, particularly "Come Thou Sinners Poor and Needy," because of the rhythm we walked up the hill.
I have to run now so we can see the ruins of St. Andrew's Cathedral here in St. Andrews before we catch a train to Aberdeen. I know you don't believe it, but we miss y'all.
Peace
Summer
On All Hallow's Eve, we visited Tomnavarie Ring Cairn. That place felt sacred in a very old way. We took some videos there that we've still not had time to upload, but here are a few stills.
Crathes Castle has the most beautiful painted ceilings. Several of the original rooms from around 1600 still show original painted beams, ceilings, and friezes around the tops of walls. Our favorite room, the Muses Room (which was also their music room), was gorgeous. Besides the muses, the virtues were painted on the ceiling between the beams. The beams were scripted with proverbs and biblical passages on the sides, and a repeating floral motif went down the center of each beam. The biblical passages were from the Geneva Bible and were themed by room (I think we saw four rooms with the original/restored painted ceilings). The amazing ceilings were definitely the best part of Crathes, but they also had really lovely gardens there.
Unfortunately, we were neither allowed to take pictures of the painted ceilings, nor were there postcards on the subject. Maybe you can find images on the internet. Crathes is also the seat of a large branch of the Burnett clan. They have the Horn of Leys in the great hall there, given to the family by Robert the Bruce.
Singing Places: Not applicable. It was too busy that day. This is me in front of one of the giant cedars.
Iona is a thin place, and one of the oldest islands in the world.
The place feels really ancient, but we didn't have the reaction we expected being there. There we were on pilgrimage, and we kept feeling sad about established religion. We found ourselves lamenting the consolidation of power in the churches, especially because of the consequences when political power shifts. We were sad that Roman Christianity tamped down Celtic Christianity. We were sad that Protestant Christianity tamped down Roman Christianity, and we were sad that the only people who seemed to care that ferns were growing above the high altar were the staff of Historic Scotland. Mostly we found ourselves being kind of ticked about the local effects of the Reformation. There used to be over 350 standing carved crosses on Iona. During the Reformation, about 345 of them were torn down. Their fate? Tossed into the middle of the sea. All that art and beauty destroyed because the Catholic church owned too much land in Britain - oh, I mean, to purify us all from idolatry - or maybe because the prioress was related to a lord who maybe some people thought should not own the island. Sigh. 7th century crosses tossed into the sea. Sigh. We went to an evening service at the Abbey church the first night on Iona. On the way, the sky cleared, and we saw more stars than we can remember seeing before. Andrew says he doesn't think he saw so many stars in the desert as we saw in the clear cold island sky that night. Star clusters sang together. That starlit walk more than any other moment on the holy island made me feel that the veil between worlds was thinner there. I remember asking if there was some deeper way to know God that the ancient saints knew. Perhaps some mystery hidden in the rocks and chapels?
The answer came when I woke at dawn to a song in my head: "Ten thousand thousand are their tongues, but all their joys are one. Worthy the Lamb who died, they cry, to be exalted thus. Worthy the Lamb! our lips reply, for He was slain for us." Whatever beauty art or nature reveal to train our hearts to see God, there is only one truth at the heart of it, and one great mystery that enlightens all beauty. I am grateful to the sacred ancient island for reminding me.Singing places on Iona: the Parish Church, a modernish Church of Scotland structure that is always unlocked; the West Coast beach, where we picked up lucky pieces of Iona green marble that washed up.
Our hosts on Iona were warm and hospitable and made us feel very welcome. In general, all of the people we've met in Scotland have been kind and friendly.
Today we saw Stirling Castle.
They are still in the process of restoring it, but the great hall was completely redone. I had no idea great halls were so massive till we went there. The castle would have been plastered in a color called "king's gold" for the most part, but James V's palace was originally plastered in "sugar pink," reflecting his reputation as an amorous lady's man (double digit bastards). The highlight of Stirling was the tapestries. Historic Scotland is currently restoring the palace. The queen's reception room in the palace originally had a series of tapestries called "The History of the Unicorn" made in the same place as the famous series now in the Metropolitan Museum in New York. (We have a reproduction of the final tapestry in the series, of the captive unicorn, in our bedroom at home). Since the Stirling originals are long gone, a team of weavers is actually recreating the unicorn series (scaled down to fit the Queen's room), largely on-site. We saw the three finished tapestries, made by two teams of 3 weavers/time, over the past six years both at Stirling and at the tapestry making center at New Deans College? We got to talk with the head weaver today. She showed us how they trace the patterns and how the patterns and colors are subject to interpretation. The studio there is preparing to loom the next big tapestry, the Unicorn Defends Himself, in January. For now, they are doing samples of colors, techniques, and shading so they can decide which methods to use on the big tapestry. It was amazing to see the variations in interpretation in the samples. Because each thread is a solid color, shading is done by tricking the eye by laying two colors next to each other in particular patterns. The weavers use their creativity within the confines of the larger pattern to bring the picture to life. Singing places in Stirling: the road between the castle and our B&B (CastleCroft, possibly the most hospitable people in the universe?) was great for singing hymns, particularly "Come Thou Sinners Poor and Needy," because of the rhythm we walked up the hill.
I have to run now so we can see the ruins of St. Andrew's Cathedral here in St. Andrews before we catch a train to Aberdeen. I know you don't believe it, but we miss y'all.
Peace
Summer
Thursday, 1 November 2007
outdoor opera- Summer
Yes, I've been back at my old habits. Yesterday I sang Klange by a burn (the Scottish name for brook) in the middle of nowhere, the Highlands. The space is so vast that it felt as though I was singing quietly. Today, we had to wait awhile at the station because the train was late. I sang Vissi d'arte, pretending (whether falsely or accurately, I don't know) that no one could hear me since the station is sort of isolated from the rest of Carrbridge. Just after I finished, our train arrived. Now that's the true outdoor opera spirit. Sing and run. Yeehaw!
Not to sound like the hedonist of the family or anything, but the food here is great. We usually eat lunch out and have breakfast and dinner in the room. Culinary highlights: vegetable soup and cheddar scones, and an amazing Venison Casserole, capitalized because it was that good. I'll try to recreate it when we get home. For sure I think it contained: red and black currants, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, cranberries, red wine, venison, and condensed vegetable stock or boullion, plus salt. Truly amazing, and I would not have thought of it myself.
Alright, I've been hogging the email. It's Andrew's turn on the computer.
Peace
Summer
Not to sound like the hedonist of the family or anything, but the food here is great. We usually eat lunch out and have breakfast and dinner in the room. Culinary highlights: vegetable soup and cheddar scones, and an amazing Venison Casserole, capitalized because it was that good. I'll try to recreate it when we get home. For sure I think it contained: red and black currants, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, cranberries, red wine, venison, and condensed vegetable stock or boullion, plus salt. Truly amazing, and I would not have thought of it myself.
Alright, I've been hogging the email. It's Andrew's turn on the computer.
Peace
Summer
First Week in Scotland
We conquered the jetlag inherent in the system, but not before an astonishing amount of sleep deprivation (Average Kinard sleep over first 36 hours: 1.5 hours).
First Impressions, Andrew:
Summer is beautiful here. [Thanks-S]. It strikes me that when we enter a garden, Summer seems to be camoflauged, because she's dressed in fall colors that exactly match the trees. A bit of advice for those who follow us to Scotland: Do not drive around Loch Ness in the dark, in the rain. Urquhart is a must-see. The 16th Century painted ceilings in Crathes Castle are so freaking cool.
First impressions, Summer:
After I got searched at the airport, the nice Indian lady called me "love" in a Cockney accent. The toilets in busy places are cooler than in US. The automatic flush works by you waving a hand in front of it, and there might be a dual flush option on the restrooms in a restaurant (very ecological). The countryside here is gorgeous. I mean, stunningly beautiful. Fresh air, clean water, and views,whether it's sunny (rare) or rainy (usual). Andrew is handsome here.
We've seen some ruins, a couple of cairns, and one furnished castle, loads of sheep, and old hills. Andrew has done an awesome job driving (even in the rain, in the dark). We made Eucharist on Monday at St. Andrews in Inverness. Today we returned hoping to celebrate the feast of All Saints, but they had a different schedule than we'd anticipated. We missed it, but we're looking forward to All Saints Sunday on Iona. Today we rode the train into Inverness to give Andrew a day free of driving. We minded the gap, of course. Next time we get an internet connection, probably next week, we'll upload pictures to the Picasa account for The Kinards. Till then, we have to head out to finish our exploration of Inverness before we head west.
Peace and Love,
Andrew and Summer
First Impressions, Andrew:
Summer is beautiful here. [Thanks-S]. It strikes me that when we enter a garden, Summer seems to be camoflauged, because she's dressed in fall colors that exactly match the trees. A bit of advice for those who follow us to Scotland: Do not drive around Loch Ness in the dark, in the rain. Urquhart is a must-see. The 16th Century painted ceilings in Crathes Castle are so freaking cool.
First impressions, Summer:
After I got searched at the airport, the nice Indian lady called me "love" in a Cockney accent. The toilets in busy places are cooler than in US. The automatic flush works by you waving a hand in front of it, and there might be a dual flush option on the restrooms in a restaurant (very ecological). The countryside here is gorgeous. I mean, stunningly beautiful. Fresh air, clean water, and views,whether it's sunny (rare) or rainy (usual). Andrew is handsome here.
We've seen some ruins, a couple of cairns, and one furnished castle, loads of sheep, and old hills. Andrew has done an awesome job driving (even in the rain, in the dark). We made Eucharist on Monday at St. Andrews in Inverness. Today we returned hoping to celebrate the feast of All Saints, but they had a different schedule than we'd anticipated. We missed it, but we're looking forward to All Saints Sunday on Iona. Today we rode the train into Inverness to give Andrew a day free of driving. We minded the gap, of course. Next time we get an internet connection, probably next week, we'll upload pictures to the Picasa account for The Kinards. Till then, we have to head out to finish our exploration of Inverness before we head west.
Peace and Love,
Andrew and Summer
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